Sunday, 6 April 2014

Bali November 2013



BALI
Arrived in Bali to find Yasa our driver now friend from 10 years ago waiting for us, after 10 years we all still recognised each other, a bit older and a bit greyer, but no difference otherwise. He dropped us at our first timeshare hotel for this trip it was in Seminyak, a very nice hotel but very impersonal, usually with timeshare it is more like a happy resort where everyone checks in on the same day so everyone there is on the same footing. There is usually a communal area where you get to know all the staff and also fellow travellers while sitting around the pool, drinking cocktails or having a meal in the restaurant. This didn't have any of those facilities, no pool & much more like a normal hotel than any timeshare we have  ever been too, but the hotel was in a very busy shopping area & surrounded by restaurants and bars which were great and varied. Seminyak is the place to be for shopping or if you want European food, we did try some of the local eateries, they were mostly excellent, as for breakfast I still need a good coffee and that we got that there too. Also found one of the best French patisseries I have ever come across anywhere, we made it our mission to try some different pastry every day, not too good for the waist line, but we persevered and lord it was tasty. Spent most days wandering around, relaxing, shopping, sitting in cafés or bars watching people.  Spent one day with Yasa sightseeing up to the volcano via Ubud where we stopped at the local market, also stopped at a photo opportunity over the rice terraces, where I got conned into spending an outrageous amount on a top, when I told Colman and Yasa I had paid $10 for the top they almost fell over, I do realise he could have gotten it for half price, but I am incapable of bartering. We have since agreed on a system whereby I say certain words to show I really want something, or good if you can get it but I don't need it really, Colman is the best barterer.  He laughs, smiles and makes jokes, I either get pissy and walk off or just give them the first price they ask for, no good apparently!  Also went to the Kopi Luwak coffee makers.  It is local coffee made from beans which have been eaten, digested and pooped out by the Luwak cat, a native catlike creature aka mongoose,  which eats the coffee beans when they are exactly the right ripeness. What it digests is the outer shell of the coffee bean leaving the bean with a bit of a coating intact, as it cannot digest this it gets pooped out some days later to be collected by the locals (that must rate in the World Greatest Jobs!), de-husked, and then roasted. We tried it and I'm sure some people will think it’s nice, for me it was too bitter, probably a double or triple roast, too strong and.... Well, I left it after one sip, Colman persevered and didn't dislike it too much!( Just maybe the Mongoose was having an off day) The markets in Ubud were very touristic and everyone with a stall wanted a piece (gets very tiring say “No Thank You” every minute for two hours), as we weren't really in the mood for shopping it didn't take us long to get around and head out, the architecture and temples are lovely but the market is like every other market. The volcano, Mt Batur, we had been to before and it was still a spectacular view although fairly overcast and rainy, the restaurant you must go to enjoy the view was ordinary to say the least. The view was great, the smorgasbord food was greasy, overcooked, cold and tasteless, the staff uninterested and up themselves. the toilets......well they didn't rate high on my list anyway. The main reason we wanted to do this trip was I wanted to see the elephant temple Jalan Goolama, and that was worth it, old, spectacular and with lovely surroundings. A couple of funny things we saw was firstly a couple of German tourist with a guide who was trying to persuade them to drink the water that was coming out of one of the statues mouths, it is "fresh spring water, very holy, good for luck, good for you, no bad, no make sick!!!" We watched shaking our heads saying don't do it, one of them did, I'm thinking Bali belly strikes again. A cute little scam in the temple we picked up on early in the piece, you pay to get in, then once inside there is jungle and after an earthquake years ago some of the outlying temples had slid into the valley, some had been built further away and were still intact, but you could wander anywhere you wanted. So at one spot there was a local who said we should go around the other side, through the water to see "more of temple", you could kind of see enough to get the idea, I walked in a little way and he kept encouraging me to go there, go there, look there. At this stage I got a bit suspicious so I turned around, said I'd seen what I wanted and headed out, he looked a bit pissy when I left, and after we  watched for a few minutes he pulled the same stunt on the next visitors, who followed him around and then we're asked for a "donation", not these little black ducks, were smarter than that!  So off we went, came to a couple more sites where similar scams we're going on and avoided them all. Then we came to a small beautiful temple in the middle of the jungle, walked in, little old monk (with 2 teeth, arthritic hands & feet) calls us over, blesses us, point us in the direction in which we need to say our prayer, sprinkles us with holy water and blesses us again and wafts smoke over us to seal the deal. How lovely was that, blessed by a local monk, you can see it coming can't you. As we thanked him and turned to leave, he stood in front of me, with his two teeth smiling,& the only thing he could utter was thhhath, thhhath, thhath, thhath, thatthh, while lifting a little carpet thing laying on top of the alter where 100,000IR ($10) notes had been beautifully ironed and aligned. He thhathed, pointed at the notes, and pointed at my handbag, bugger, so much for smart.   Anyway I gave him about $2, he wasn't excited but let me get away, he then tore past me at the speed of light to get to Colman who had waited for me, after much thhathing and pointing he got cash out of Colman too. Truthfully, we didn't actually mind because the guy was absolutely hysterical and this was going to be one of those things that will be remembered. After all that excitement we headed homewards for r&r. After a week in Seminyak, we packed up and headed to Senor for the next timeshare week. A much more typical timeshare resort, lovely pool, restaurant, bar and staff you got to know, great room with a little balcony where we sat in the morning for coffee watching the squirrels play in the frangipani trees in front of us. We managed to find a jar of Nescafé and some real cow’s milk in Seminyak so all was well.  Went for long walks down to the beach where you get the usual hassle to buy stuff, strangly &we have remarked on this before, after a week or so you seem to get this look about yourself and the locals seem to sense that they are wasting their time approaching you, so unless you actually show interest in something they don't bother.  Here we met up with Yasa’s wife Susu and had a long chat with her, lovely to see her again too. Also found out Ayu, a girl we met last time who had worked for her now manages a spa a little further down the beach, so went to catch up with her also. The beauty salon came into existence thanks to a very generous Danish guy and his wife who met Ayu several times on her way to work , then offered to have her trained as a beautician, buy a salon and make her manager. He did the same thing to another girl and bought her a cafe, incorporated the two and now has a huge set up right on Sanur beach. Ayu invited us to her house (built and furnished by the same Danish guy Daneto) meet her husband and young son and check out her place, very impressive, she has come a long way since we met her 12 years ago. Monday of that week we were off to Menjangan Island for some diving, a friend of Yasas picked us up as Yasa had cremations and ceremonies to go to. Wayan (meaning first born) was quite nice and he took us on a bit of a sightseeing trip on the way up.  We stopped at the spice markets first where the guy that tried to sell us watches with accommodation (plastic bags) was still trying to sell them, 10 years later!!  Danau Tambligan and Buyan, called the twin lakes (there are actually 3 lakes, but you only see the two from the viewing platform), and then to Munduk waterfall, a gorgeous waterfall 1000m above sea level, we are lucky the car made it up the hill.  They don’t believe in gentle gradients, straight up will do!  Also saw some of the more non touristy areas of Bali, rice fields where you didn't need to pay to take a photo. Took us very much the back roads which were in very bad state of repair but you did get to see the more real Bali. We eventually arrive at Menjangan resort, it was about 2km set back from the main road and Wayan could only take us about 500 meters to the reception area, which in high season was also part of the resort but now was supposedly closed for renovations .After a welcome drink with some spring rolls we were  then a driven to the beach part of the resort on top of a ute that had seats welded to a roof platform so you could sit on top and watch the jungle go by, which of course we did. Our bungalow when we got there was lovely, huge bed overlooking the ocean through French doors, as well as an open roof bathroom which I have always wanted to try. As always, there are drawbacks, heading out to the toilet in the middle of the night, not knowing what is going to be sitting or crawling on the toilet seat doesn’t make for a relaxing moment in the great outdoors. Shortly after we arrived and had a walk around, deer started to come out of the jungle to swim and then lay in the shade of the mangrove trees in front of our bungalow, so lovely. Then the heavens opened so not much to do except stick around inside till it passes, perfect time for an outdoor bath on our huge marble bathtub. Later we checked on the diving the next day, booked a traditional dinner and a massage over cocktails on a jetty over the water.  Pretty much how the remaining two days went, diving followed by cocktails, then massage and dining on the local food. We did a dive in the house reef which was ok; we did a dusk/night dive to watch the Mandarin fish mate. Now this was interesting, our DM Hermi was good at finding these critters "doing it" despite it being a very quick process. They basically hang around in the finger coral checking each other out, when they both decide the other is ok the come up over the coral, she releases a spurt of eggs which get fertilised and then they head back into the coral, all over done and dusted in 4-5 seconds, and I saw it twice!! And got a reasonable photo to boot so I was excited, the fish are lovely, shades of orange, blue and black. Came back from dive after dark and went for dinner then bed. Next day we had a double dive at Menjangan Island this time with DM Komer who was great. We were joined by two Americans one of whom had dive a couple of times 8 years ago and didn't really want to go deep, but his mate had been there and done that everywhere and egged his mate on to do just that. Turned into a bit of a circus because the uncomfortable one was always meters above us meaning the DM has to keep checking up on him, the cool dude didn't listen to anything the DM said which in diving is not a good thing, stuff like 'how are you' and 'how much air' are pretty important, so the DM had to go chasing him the other time. This was good in a way because it meant Colman and I could puddle along, the DM made sure he showed us anything of interest and that we were ok and after that we were left to mosey along the huge coral wall and into the massive coral gardens, with plenty of wildlife thrown in. After the diving we headed back to the boat and Wayan was waiting for us to take us back to Senur. The remainder of the time was spent wandering around, a bit of shopping, lots of relaxing and some very tasty meals thrown in. One night we went to a restaurant recommend by an Aussie friend as the 'best', it was fine, lovely surroundings and good food and quite pricey. The next night we went to a restaurant recommended by our friend Yasa, nice surroundings and great food and substantially cheaper, the night after we went to the local food night market with Yasa and Susu, very interesting surroundings and excellent food, and for a couple of dollars you could eat yourself silly, so there you go. Mind you we try and eat at a local food at a western type restaurant about every third or fourth night just to give our bellies a break. It was sad to leave, we had a very relaxing and enjoyable stay, but up we got at 1.30am, to catch the 4.30am flight to KL and into Phnom Phen

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